Boron and sashiko: Japanese techniques for repairing clothes
Emerged in Japan out of necessity, the boron and sashiko techniques gained the runways and are beautiful and sustainable options to avoid discarding parts
"sashiko stitch and patch" (CC BY 2.0) from my little red suitcase
Japanese pieces sewn in a boron style have a unique beauty. Boron is a traditional technique used to repair clothes , which originated in Japan as a way to wear a piece until the end of its useful life , joining pieces of different fabrics to restore an item or create a new piece from the joining of the garment . otherwise they would be just useless pieces of cloth. Allied to the technique, the sashiko stitch emerged, which was used to make the patches and, over time, gained autonomy and merely aesthetic uses.
Born out of necessity, boron makes each piece tell a unique story of its lifespan. The patterns used to join the fabrics (the sashiko stitch) are carefully designed and there is a movement of reflection from those who sew to the history of the garment, its usefulness and the possibilities that each item still offers. The technique created in Japan is currently an option for those who want to escape the world of fast fashion, in which all products are made to last a few seasons and are soon discarded and replaced.
Boron's history dates back to 18th- and 19th-century Japan, where cotton was a luxury only the nobility could afford. The poorer classes dressed in more rustic fibers, which were not only more difficult to make into fabric but also lasted less. Thus, by sewing different pieces of cloth and using reinforced stitches, it was possible to strengthen the fiber so that it would last longer. In addition, in the Edo period (which lasted until 1868), there were laws that prohibited the lower classes from wearing brightly colored clothing, which made traditional Boron-style clothing colors brown and indigo blue (close of the current blue jeans).
"sashiko stitch and patch" (CC BY 2.0) from my little red suitcase
The boron technique, then, allowed a fabric to last a long time and be used until the end of its useful life. It was common for a garment to start as a kimono, become an everyday outfit, then a pillowcase, a futon cover, a bag and finally finish its cycle as a floor cloth. Each patch was used until it ran out, which matches the Japanese principle of “mottainai”, which values the use of the entire intrinsic value of an object and expresses regret for the waste.
The sashiko sewing method, in turn, began as a quick and functional patching and reinforcing stitch in the boron technique. As clothes became cheaper, “dashed” stitching evolved into something more decorative. Thus, each repair becomes a creative challenge, in which whoever sews can create the drawing patterns and use them to express themselves.
Learning how to make Japanese clothing repair techniques is a way to avoid wasting items in good condition and still generate a unique piece. Boron is common on catwalks these days, as is sashiko stitch, and both techniques are ways to add a little creativity to the traditionally understated clothing mending. Also, in essence, the techniques embrace imperfection, so they can serve as fun or meditative exercise and are great gateways for anyone looking to start sewing.
How to make?
Image: Examples of sashiko sewing. "genki coasters" (CC BY 2.0) by Saké Puppets
You can start with any piece of fabric that needs repairing, whether it's an outfit or a pillow case. The boron method works very well on denim pieces, which are closer to the origin of the technique.
Necessary materials:
- sashiko needle or needle for embroidery;
- Sashiko thread, thick cotton thread or embroidery thread;
- A sewing ruler or pen (if you want to make straight patterns);
- Thermo-adhesive lining (optional for repairs and creating patterns to be sewn).
Sewing stitches to try:
- Parallel lines
- crossed strokes
- chaotic lines
- Boxes
- Line encounters
- Alternating short and long stitches
- Official sashiko patterns
Tips
- Use what you have and share resources with others;
- Look for images in Pinterest to get inspired;
- Make your own design and enjoy the process;
- Be playful and remember that there is nothing like a mistake;
- If your thread is too thick try separating it into two different threads;
- Consider using fabrics and threads with different textures;
- Consider using different widths and sewing directions;
- Also think about leaving a space free of dots to balance the design;
- Cotton and silk flaps will have a better finish than polyester blends;
- Use pieces of fabric from pieces you no longer want to use to make the scraps;
- Consider using natural dyes if you can't find the right color to match threads and fabrics.
